Sunday, August 2, 2009

Why Istanbul is mystical

I BELIEVE there are places in the world one must witness firsthand. Istanbul, the capital of Turkey, is one.
I was very thankful when a recent business trip allowed me to see this mystical metropolis with my own eyes.
Istanbul is the only city in the world built on two continents, one arm reaching out to Asia, the other, to Europe. The Bosphorus Strait runs through the city and courses to the Black Sea, the Sea of Marmara and the Golden Horn.
It is the former capital of three great empires, the Roman, Christian Byzantine and Islamic Ottoman empires, their rich legacy contrasting magnificently with and adding to the charm of modern-day Istanbul, where posh five-star hotels and shopping centers share space with ancient mosques, churches and palaces.
Breathtaking view
After arriving early morning at Istanbul’s Ataturk International Airport, I took a short cab ride to my hotel. I was delighted to discover that my room provided a breathtaking view of the Bosphorus Strait and Sea of Marmara – an auspicious omen to my five-day stay in this glorious city.
Like Sarah Ban Breathnach in her book, “Something More,” I wanted to go to Turkey, stand in the ruins of Troy and watch the whirling dervishes. Unfortunately, Canakkale, where Troy is located, is a five-hour bus ride from Istanbul, and there was only a limited number of flights to the historic seaside town. With my tight schedule, I decided to concentrate on the many historical attractions of Istanbul.
I’ve never let travel get in the way of my daily fitness routine, so every morning, during my stay, I took a brisk walk on the lovely streets of the Beyoglu district, where the Church of St. Anthony de Padua is. Thanks to my daily, early morning ambulation, I made good on my promise to hear Mass in the largest Catholic cathedral in Istanbul.
Official residence
For 20 Turkish liras (about P600) I gained entry to Topkapi Palace which, from 1465 to 1853, was the official and primary residence in Istanbul of the Ottoman sultans.
Consisting of four main courtyards and many smaller buildings, this magnificent palace complex is one of several monuments that belong to the “historic areas of Istanbul,” which became part of the Unesco World Heritage List in 1985. The palace’s Imperial Treasury is considered the world’s second richest, housing some of Islam’s and Christianity’s most sacred relics, including the golden shrine that used to contain the cloak of Mohammed, the footprint impression of the great prophet, and the hand and arm bones of St. John the Baptist set in a golden covering.
I paid an additional 15 Turkish liras (about P450) to enter the 400-room Imperial Harem, which was the residence of the sultan’s wives and concubines, as well as the sexually-inert eunuchs who guarded them.
Architectural grandeur
Next on my itinerary was the 1,500-year-old former patriarchal basilica, later a mosque and now a museum, the Hagia Sophia. Famous for its massive dome, it is considered the epitome of Byzantine architecture.
I spent a longer time at Hagia Sophia, taking in its architectural grandeur and magnificent mosaics of the Virgin Mary (proclaimed Protector of the City), Christ the Child, the Archangels Gabriel and Michael, saints, emperors and empresses.
If you like going to the tiangge, you will love Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar, one of the world’s largest covered markets. An important trading center since 1461, it consists of two domed masonry structures called “bedestens,” built for storage and safekeeping of goods.
Its labyrinthine vaults snake through 60 streets. The Grand Bazaar houses 5,000 shops, attracting between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily.
Boat ride
Weather-permitting, you can enjoy a boat ride on the Bosphorus, the strait which forms the boundary between the European part of Turkey (Thrace) and its Asian part (Anatolia). If you like spices, dried fruits, nuts and seeds, drop by the Spice Bazaar. If you’re into art and architecture, visit the Dolmabahçe Palace and marvel at its opulent fusion of Neo-Classic, Baroque, Rococo and Ottoman styles.
To experience Istanbul’s city life at its most authentic, take a walk on the cobblestone-paved Istiklal Street and enjoy its many restaurants, cafés and shops (watch out for cab drivers who charge twice the legal rate; explore the city on foot as much as possible).
Food paradise
Turkey is a food lover’s paradise. After the Chinese and French, Turkish cuisine is the third richest in the world. Cold appetizers (mezze) such as stuffed wine leaves, stuffed green capsicum or aubergine salad pave the way for piping hot main courses such as kebabs, meatballs or, in coastal areas like the Bosphorus, a wide range of fish dishes.
After-meal sweets are aplenty, such as Baklava, Helva and various milk desserts.
The national drink is tea, grown in the eastern Black Sea region; the world-famous Turkish coffee is served in small cups after meals.
I highly recommend: Turkish pistachios and hazelnuts; kebabs and shawarma, especially those served in the 112-year-old Konyali Restaurant; Turkish Delights—also called lokum, these typically rose water- and lemon-flavored jelly candies are ideal for pasalubong.
Buy the genuine ones from the 300-year-old Haci Bekir, a confectioner shop reputedly run by the descendants of the man who first created Turkish Delights.
My heartfelt gratitude to Aunt Amy and his husband, Uncle Oner Hortacsu, for being such gracious hosts.
My uncle and aunt are retired chemistry and chemical engineering professors in Istanbul’s top university.
The president of my company’s Turkey office was one of their students.
I am truly blessed to have witnessed glorious Istanbul, an enchanting city that links East and West, the past and present, Islam and Christianity.
Returning to Istanbul would be an easy decision.

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